Two last days in Keswick, and I really haven't done a whole lot. I spent a lot of today and yesterday working on a travel writing essay that's due tomorrow. Fortunately, I finished it tonight and hopefully it's good enough.
Yesterday, though, Erin and I had quite the morning. I woke up, showered, ate breakfast - normal morning. But when I came back to the room, I found Erin sitting in the middle of her bed with wide eyes and a camera in her hands. She looked at me and asked, "Are you scared of spiders?"
Turns out there was a huge spider living inside her shoe, which was still damp from Hadrian's Wall. And when I say huge, I really do mean HUGE - it was a really, really big spider. Big ol' brown one with creepily long legs.
I'm completely fine with small spiders. If they're hanging out on the ceiling, fine. If they come near me, I'll squish them. But this one? I know I would have felt it squish in my hands had I tried to kill it. So NO WAY was I nearing this one!
Turns out Nelly was the one to save our lives. She suited up by borrowing Erin's gloves and grabbing a notebook. Then she tipped the shoe over and poked at it until the spider crawled onto the floor, when she then slammed the notebook down and proceeded to jump up and down on top of the notebook a few times, just to make sure.
The spider was truly smushed, and now we have spider mush in the carpet to prove it. Neither of us are too keen on scraping that up - plus, I'm pretty sure it's ground in to the carpet and would take a little effort to remove.
Later I went out to Java and Chocolate with Kaari, and we sat outside with our coffee for a while doing some devotions (since it was Sunday and all). I spent a good chunk of the afternoon writing, but I went back into Keswick later with Carrie and Emily C to look around in stores. We also dropped in at Costa Coffee around 5 and had a great time talking.
Today was much the same in that I had a pretty laid back day. We had class in the morning from 9 - 11:10, and then I finished up a draft of my essay. Then Kaari and I went out to the Wild Strawberry Coffee House, where I had raspberry tea and a cheddar cheese scone. It was absolutely delicious. =)
Seems kind of lame to spend my last two days in the Lake District indoors, but in my defense it's been really rainy. Especially today - it hardly stopped raining all day. It would have been nice to go hiking somewhere else, but in the rain and mud, it probably would have been unpleasant.
Tomorrow we're heading to St. Deiniol's in Wales. It's a giant library, so it should actually be rather relaxing. Plus, we're stopping in Liverpool on the way to see the Beatles museum plus spend a few more hours hanging out. I'm excited, at least.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Just another day in the Lake District
Today was Saturday, but we started off with a couple classes. Actually, it could be worse. Classes seem a lot more low key when they take place in the dining room of the conference center. Most people just roll out of bed and grab breakfast before class. We do learn, but it seems less like a class and more like learning as a group, if you understand what I mean.
Then after lunch a group of us decided to hike out to Castlerigg. It was only a five mile hike, and a lot of the trail crossed through fields and used roads. But it was fun - since we were a group of nerdy English majors, we decided that "We Are Seven." (I know no one else will get that AT ALL - just know that it's a reference to a Wordsworth poem with the same title.) Because we were seven, after all. Then we argued about who would have to go lie in the churchyard.
Since it's been raining a lot, some of the fields were rather muddy. For the most point, we could avoid the mud puddles, but one time it was inevitable. We squished through the mud, lifting our feet with a gross suctioning sound. So my shoes are finally starting to look used rather than brand new.
Castlerigg is a neolithic stone circle, kind of like Stonehenge. Except the stones aren't as big, and you're actually allowed to climb around on them. It was fun to see, in any case, and it was good to get out walking to explore the nature in the Lake District.
The rest of the day I've attempted to work on homework, but really failed. I'm putting my faith in tomorrow, since one group of people is going to Beatrix Potter's house and another is going horseback riding. The Conference Center should be a little more empty, so I'm hoping to actually get a rough draft of my travel writing essay scrawled out.
Then after lunch a group of us decided to hike out to Castlerigg. It was only a five mile hike, and a lot of the trail crossed through fields and used roads. But it was fun - since we were a group of nerdy English majors, we decided that "We Are Seven." (I know no one else will get that AT ALL - just know that it's a reference to a Wordsworth poem with the same title.) Because we were seven, after all. Then we argued about who would have to go lie in the churchyard.
Since it's been raining a lot, some of the fields were rather muddy. For the most point, we could avoid the mud puddles, but one time it was inevitable. We squished through the mud, lifting our feet with a gross suctioning sound. So my shoes are finally starting to look used rather than brand new.
Castlerigg is a neolithic stone circle, kind of like Stonehenge. Except the stones aren't as big, and you're actually allowed to climb around on them. It was fun to see, in any case, and it was good to get out walking to explore the nature in the Lake District.
The rest of the day I've attempted to work on homework, but really failed. I'm putting my faith in tomorrow, since one group of people is going to Beatrix Potter's house and another is going horseback riding. The Conference Center should be a little more empty, so I'm hoping to actually get a rough draft of my travel writing essay scrawled out.
Friday, August 28, 2009
My 21st birthday and a day of ghyll scrambling
Where do I even start? I’m in the Lake District now, and it’s absolutely beautiful. Mountains, trees, lakes… it’s like Colorado x10. Plus, it’s also where I spent my 21st birthday, so it’ll always have a special place in my heart.
But first – I must tell you what we did the day before my birthday (Wednesday) on the way out here. We stopped in at Hadrian’s Wall, which is the wall the Romans built way back in about 100AD to separate the Scots and the Brits (not that they were called that back then, but close enough). It was on and off rain, so we were hiking up and down big hills in the rain, which was pretty epic. I felt cool, at least. Then we went to a museum at Vindolanda, where they’re still excavating an ancient Roman fort. Apparently there’s been about 9 forts built on top of each other, and so some of the layers have gotten anaerobic conditions, so there have been a lot of old Roman artifacts found. And they’ve only gotten a small part of it actually excavated.
Then on Thursday, I turned 21. I still appreciate the irony that I turned 21 in England, where no one really cares. But I got up early (I went to bed at 10 the night before, so it was rather nice to be up) and went to Costa Coffee and got a mocha. We had to have class at 10am, so I figured it would be a much better day if I started out with some coffee.
We then had class for an hour or so, plus a quiz. Thankfully the quiz was easy – one short answer and some multiple choice. We also learned the wifi password for the wifi at Keswick Conference Center, which is where we’re staying for the week. So I had time to send out a quick email to Seth so I could be sure that he could be online for a Skype conversation later.
Our afternoon activity was a bus trip up to Grasmere to see Dove Cottage, the house where William Wordsworth lived for a good portion of his life. While we were out on our walk in the area around the cottage, everyone else gave me a birthday “surprise.” It was actually only a partial surprise, since on the Wednesday bus ride I saw a yellow piece of paper getting passed around the bus to everyone but me. I’m not entirely oblivious or stupid, but I pretended not to notice. On the other hand, I didn’t know what they were planning. Turns out they wrote me a birthday poem, as nerdy English students are wont to do.
“To the most excellent, edifying, extravagantly beautiful Erin Gardner,
We wish to celebrate you on this glorious day.
Where upon treading the epic cliffs of Scotland,
You stopped to admire all the slugs. (Kaari)
For your renowned rubber ducky collection,
Which has been an inspiration to all. (Melissa K)
Where upon finding Milton unread,
You bravely skipped chapel and read valiantly in the English Corner. (Joel)
Where upon the halls of Hogwarts,
Your eyes lit up like Goblets of Fire. (Erin B)
Where upon braving wind, rain, and heights,
Climbed Hadrian’s Wall with style.
Where upon reaching the summit of Hadrian’s wall,
You proved your dedication by struggling though muddy fields.
Where upon wandering through the Roman ruins,
You were ever faithful to still be carrying your Dr Pepper.
Where upon we haven’t talked that much,
But you seem bomb – let’s be besties and kick it.
Where upon you made the most rockin’ brownies Edinburgh has ever seen –
And you eye-balled it."
So that was my poem. Only some of them were signed, and I’m pretty sure that whoever wrote the one about muddy fields and Hadrian’s Wall confused me with the other Erin (because she was the one who did that), but it was still entertaining.
Then we had a super nerdy lecture about Wordsworth, but we did get to see some extremely rare copies of Lyrical Ballads. Think about 1 of 4 copies or 1 of 6 – let’s just say they were about £10,000 books. It was awesome!
The funny part of the day was our attempt to catch the bus home. About 14 of us got out to the stop by Dove Cottage in plenty of time for the 4:08 bus, and as we were watching it drove right past the stop without even slowing down. To make a long story short, we walked down to the next bus stop and waited a wonderful 30 minutes for the next bus, simply hoping that it would actually stop. We really did look like a mob of tourists. But we got the bus, and we made it safely back to Keswick (though slightly later than planned).
After we got back, I decided that it would be lame to eat in on my birthday, so I went out to eat with Erin, Melissa H, Melissa K, and Carrie. I ordered my first fish and chips of the trip, and it was delicious. We even ordered a piece of chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert, and split it between four of us – Melissa H has a peanut allergy and didn’t want to risk it – and they didn’t let me pay for it.
And when I was finally in for the night, I got to have a nice long Skype conversation with Seth. That’s what I really wanted for my birthday, so I was glad for the wifi in the Conference Center. Otherwise I wouldn’t get to – everything closes here between 5 and 7 pm (except for pubs).
So it was a wonderful day overall – I mean really, there are a lot worse places that I could spend my birthday.
Today, then, was our outdoor adventure day. I was a little sketchy about it at first, especially since the weather forecast was “heavy rain.” Lovely. But it was actually a lot of fun, though I’m sure I’ll be sore tomorrow.
First, we had to get outfitted. We all got set up with a set of waterproofs – waterproof pants and a jacket (with hood) in either a classy shade of purple or blue. I was one of the purple crowd. Then we got to put on a pair of Wellies – and now I have a very healthy respect for Wellies. They kept my feet dry and feeling great. Then we walked down to a cottage and got a lifejacket. So now picture this: I’m now wearing bright purple pants and jacket, a classy pair of Wellies, and a sea green lifejacket. And every other England Termer is looking the same. It was great.
Our first scheduled “activity” was raft building. I was expecting to go collect wood in the forest, which would be lame. But we just tied two canoes together with a couple boards and rope and then had fun canoeing out on the lake as it was raining off and on. But we had our waterproofs, so it was good.
We had about four rafts out, and were split up into two teams. My raft had 6 people, and we paddled to the chant of “Mark… Bruce! Mark… Bruce!” Once we got out to an island, we were supposed to rotate clockwise around in our raft. That meant climbing out onto a skinny board over the lake to get into the next canoe. Then when the other raft in our team was there too, we had to swap places with them, so that meant climbing into another canoe. Then we had to get back to our original spot, but we could only go clockwise. Luckily we had no men overboard.
Then we ended up playing a game that was sort of like canoe Quidditch, except without the snitch and without beaters. Just a quaffle and two goals. I don’t know. It was just a lot more fun than I expected, though my arms are going to hurt tomorrow since they’re not used to paddling.
After that we ate lunch, and then we split up: some people went to do archery and orienteering, and the rest went ghyll scrambling. I decided to do ghyll scrambling, and it was great fun.
First, we had to get re-suited. This time, we stripped down to underwear and put on a wet suit. Then we put our waterproofs back on, then the Wellies, lifejacket, and a helmet. Essentially, ghyll scrambling is playing in a mountain stream. That’s actually what a ghyll is – just and English word for stream. So, we went scrambling in a ghyll.
Since it had been raining a lot lately, we didn’t get the full ghyll scrambling experience. Our stream was more powerful than usual, and a lot more dangerous. We did get to climb up a little waterfall (sort of) and jump into a deep pool and float to a shallows. Let’s just say that the water was quite chilled, too. Especially the first wading – once the water reached the top of the Wellies, it got in the boots to stay. Mine were pretty much sealed around my calves, so I had a slow trickle of cold water, but a lot of people got a sudden flood. Plus, we had to do a little bit of hiking to get to the safe spots of the stream, so I got to walk up muddy slopes with a lake in my Wellies.
I’ve been taking it pretty easy the rest of the day, since I’m pretty beat. I’ve done a little homework, written this… I don’t know. I think I’ll head into the dining room to get good wifi and post this, and then maybe go to bed early.
But first – I must tell you what we did the day before my birthday (Wednesday) on the way out here. We stopped in at Hadrian’s Wall, which is the wall the Romans built way back in about 100AD to separate the Scots and the Brits (not that they were called that back then, but close enough). It was on and off rain, so we were hiking up and down big hills in the rain, which was pretty epic. I felt cool, at least. Then we went to a museum at Vindolanda, where they’re still excavating an ancient Roman fort. Apparently there’s been about 9 forts built on top of each other, and so some of the layers have gotten anaerobic conditions, so there have been a lot of old Roman artifacts found. And they’ve only gotten a small part of it actually excavated.
Then on Thursday, I turned 21. I still appreciate the irony that I turned 21 in England, where no one really cares. But I got up early (I went to bed at 10 the night before, so it was rather nice to be up) and went to Costa Coffee and got a mocha. We had to have class at 10am, so I figured it would be a much better day if I started out with some coffee.
We then had class for an hour or so, plus a quiz. Thankfully the quiz was easy – one short answer and some multiple choice. We also learned the wifi password for the wifi at Keswick Conference Center, which is where we’re staying for the week. So I had time to send out a quick email to Seth so I could be sure that he could be online for a Skype conversation later.
Our afternoon activity was a bus trip up to Grasmere to see Dove Cottage, the house where William Wordsworth lived for a good portion of his life. While we were out on our walk in the area around the cottage, everyone else gave me a birthday “surprise.” It was actually only a partial surprise, since on the Wednesday bus ride I saw a yellow piece of paper getting passed around the bus to everyone but me. I’m not entirely oblivious or stupid, but I pretended not to notice. On the other hand, I didn’t know what they were planning. Turns out they wrote me a birthday poem, as nerdy English students are wont to do.
“To the most excellent, edifying, extravagantly beautiful Erin Gardner,
We wish to celebrate you on this glorious day.
Where upon treading the epic cliffs of Scotland,
You stopped to admire all the slugs. (Kaari)
For your renowned rubber ducky collection,
Which has been an inspiration to all. (Melissa K)
Where upon finding Milton unread,
You bravely skipped chapel and read valiantly in the English Corner. (Joel)
Where upon the halls of Hogwarts,
Your eyes lit up like Goblets of Fire. (Erin B)
Where upon braving wind, rain, and heights,
Climbed Hadrian’s Wall with style.
Where upon reaching the summit of Hadrian’s wall,
You proved your dedication by struggling though muddy fields.
Where upon wandering through the Roman ruins,
You were ever faithful to still be carrying your Dr Pepper.
Where upon we haven’t talked that much,
But you seem bomb – let’s be besties and kick it.
Where upon you made the most rockin’ brownies Edinburgh has ever seen –
And you eye-balled it."
So that was my poem. Only some of them were signed, and I’m pretty sure that whoever wrote the one about muddy fields and Hadrian’s Wall confused me with the other Erin (because she was the one who did that), but it was still entertaining.
Then we had a super nerdy lecture about Wordsworth, but we did get to see some extremely rare copies of Lyrical Ballads. Think about 1 of 4 copies or 1 of 6 – let’s just say they were about £10,000 books. It was awesome!
The funny part of the day was our attempt to catch the bus home. About 14 of us got out to the stop by Dove Cottage in plenty of time for the 4:08 bus, and as we were watching it drove right past the stop without even slowing down. To make a long story short, we walked down to the next bus stop and waited a wonderful 30 minutes for the next bus, simply hoping that it would actually stop. We really did look like a mob of tourists. But we got the bus, and we made it safely back to Keswick (though slightly later than planned).
After we got back, I decided that it would be lame to eat in on my birthday, so I went out to eat with Erin, Melissa H, Melissa K, and Carrie. I ordered my first fish and chips of the trip, and it was delicious. We even ordered a piece of chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert, and split it between four of us – Melissa H has a peanut allergy and didn’t want to risk it – and they didn’t let me pay for it.
And when I was finally in for the night, I got to have a nice long Skype conversation with Seth. That’s what I really wanted for my birthday, so I was glad for the wifi in the Conference Center. Otherwise I wouldn’t get to – everything closes here between 5 and 7 pm (except for pubs).
So it was a wonderful day overall – I mean really, there are a lot worse places that I could spend my birthday.
Today, then, was our outdoor adventure day. I was a little sketchy about it at first, especially since the weather forecast was “heavy rain.” Lovely. But it was actually a lot of fun, though I’m sure I’ll be sore tomorrow.
First, we had to get outfitted. We all got set up with a set of waterproofs – waterproof pants and a jacket (with hood) in either a classy shade of purple or blue. I was one of the purple crowd. Then we got to put on a pair of Wellies – and now I have a very healthy respect for Wellies. They kept my feet dry and feeling great. Then we walked down to a cottage and got a lifejacket. So now picture this: I’m now wearing bright purple pants and jacket, a classy pair of Wellies, and a sea green lifejacket. And every other England Termer is looking the same. It was great.
Our first scheduled “activity” was raft building. I was expecting to go collect wood in the forest, which would be lame. But we just tied two canoes together with a couple boards and rope and then had fun canoeing out on the lake as it was raining off and on. But we had our waterproofs, so it was good.
We had about four rafts out, and were split up into two teams. My raft had 6 people, and we paddled to the chant of “Mark… Bruce! Mark… Bruce!” Once we got out to an island, we were supposed to rotate clockwise around in our raft. That meant climbing out onto a skinny board over the lake to get into the next canoe. Then when the other raft in our team was there too, we had to swap places with them, so that meant climbing into another canoe. Then we had to get back to our original spot, but we could only go clockwise. Luckily we had no men overboard.
Then we ended up playing a game that was sort of like canoe Quidditch, except without the snitch and without beaters. Just a quaffle and two goals. I don’t know. It was just a lot more fun than I expected, though my arms are going to hurt tomorrow since they’re not used to paddling.
After that we ate lunch, and then we split up: some people went to do archery and orienteering, and the rest went ghyll scrambling. I decided to do ghyll scrambling, and it was great fun.
First, we had to get re-suited. This time, we stripped down to underwear and put on a wet suit. Then we put our waterproofs back on, then the Wellies, lifejacket, and a helmet. Essentially, ghyll scrambling is playing in a mountain stream. That’s actually what a ghyll is – just and English word for stream. So, we went scrambling in a ghyll.
Since it had been raining a lot lately, we didn’t get the full ghyll scrambling experience. Our stream was more powerful than usual, and a lot more dangerous. We did get to climb up a little waterfall (sort of) and jump into a deep pool and float to a shallows. Let’s just say that the water was quite chilled, too. Especially the first wading – once the water reached the top of the Wellies, it got in the boots to stay. Mine were pretty much sealed around my calves, so I had a slow trickle of cold water, but a lot of people got a sudden flood. Plus, we had to do a little bit of hiking to get to the safe spots of the stream, so I got to walk up muddy slopes with a lake in my Wellies.
I’ve been taking it pretty easy the rest of the day, since I’m pretty beat. I’ve done a little homework, written this… I don’t know. I think I’ll head into the dining room to get good wifi and post this, and then maybe go to bed early.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
From Tuesday
Tuesday August 25, 2009
We crossed the border into England yesterday, and I feel like I’ve already had an authentic English experience. I’ve already had tea and biscuits, and cold toast for breakfast. And while I’m typing this entry, I’m listening to The Beatles.
Before we left Scotland yesterday, we visited the home of Sir Walter Scott in Abbotsford. I didn’t know what I was getting into since I equated a writer’s house with a small cottage. In reality, Sir Walter Scott’s house was more like a castle. It had an epic study filled with books AND a library. He also was an avid collector of historical items, like a clock that belonged to Marie Antoinette, armor from the battle at Waterloo, a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair, and many other things. Plus he had beautiful gardens and was right on the River Tweed.
Eventually we bussed over to the island of Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island. It was actually nice to get away from the bustle of Edinburgh, even though I loved the city. This morning I did one of my “official” journal entries on the beach as I watched the tide go out. (One of our assignments is to write travel writing journals, but part of travel writing is that it isn’t supposed to be a personal account of your travel. So I have to do a separate batch of journal entries from the ones that I post on my blog.) In any case, I think the one I wrote this morning give a decent picture of Lindisfarne, so I’ll type it up here:
It’s hard to imagine that a small island off the north-east coast of England was once the center of Celtic Christianity. Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, is only about 2 square miles and accessible only during low tide. Otherwise the high tide sweeps over the causeway and Lindisfarne is an island once again.
I can’t imagine that there are many permanent residents here, and once the summer crowds leave at 4:00pm, the island seems empty and cut off from the world.
It wasn’t always this way. Back in the 7th century AD, a group of Irish monks from Iona chose Lindisfarne as the center for the first monastery in England. They needed a location that was accessible for the people so they could introduce the people of England to Christianity. And it was the island of Lindisfarne that they chose.
Today, Lindisfarne seems almost forgotten from the books of history. Places like Durham Cathedral, where the remains of St. Cuthbert were moved after the Vikings ransacked Lindisfarne, are much more well known and visited than this small island.
But if you’re looking for a place of rest and contemplation, the Holy Island is the best place to go to encounter God. When the tides come in and flood the causeway, any desires to get up and travel are temporarily swept away with the water. After all, unless you’ve got a boat or dare to swim in the icy waters of the North Sea, you’re staying for the night. Soon all you’re left with is the silence of the wind and waves.
So take the time to follow the example set by the Irish monks of the 7th century. Find a spot on the beaches of Lindisfarne and sit and enjoy the silence. Listen to the waves retreating, the sea birds calling, and the breeze tickling your face. Listen and meditate, and when God speaks to your soul, obey.
So those were my thoughts this morning. It was just so peaceful to sit out on the beach and listen. I probably could have used another day or two there, because it finally gave me a chance to catch up on some homework. The busyness of Edinburgh made it really hard to do any reading or writing since there was always something else I could be doing that I would never have the chance to do again.
We left Lindisfarne this morning at 11:30am, after the tides had gone down and opened up the causeway again. Our destination was Durham, but on the way we made a detour at Hogwarts. Yes, you heard me right: we went to Hogwarts. Ha. By that I mean that we drove by Alnwick Castle, which was apparently used to film some of the Harry Potter movies. So being the English nerds that we are, we stopped and took nerdy pictures in front of the castle for a couple minutes before hopping on the bus again and heading off. It was fantastic, really.
We got to Durham early this afternoon – about 2:00pm, I believe. We’re staying at a dorm at St. John’s University, which is a pretty decent accommodation. It’s only two to a room, in any case.
Then we headed over to Durham Cathedral for a tour. This is where the remains of St. Cuthbert were finally buried, so it was really cool to visit the shrine in the cathedral where he’s buried and where people today still make pilgrimages. Apparently Cuthbert is buried with the head of King Oswald as well, which is kind of weird. But it’s legit, since Oswald was the one responsible for allowing the Irish monks (and St. Aiden) to start the monastery at Lindisfarne and therefore bring Christianity to England. I’ve actually come to admire Aiden and Cuthbert a lot – go look up some of their history; it’s pretty interesting.
And believe it or not, Durham Cathedral is actually Hogwarts as well. The courtyard at the south end of the cathedral was used to film parts of the first and second movies, so of course we took more nerdy Harry Potter pictures.
So that’s about all I’ve seen of Durham, because after the Evensong service (done by 6pm), most places were closed. We were planning on fish and chips for dinner, but all those places were closed so we got pizza at a café. Oh well.
Plus, we were told that we got wifi in our room and all we needed to do was get a guest logon pass at reception, but that’s a lie. I technically got a signal, but I could only get the very weak signal by placing my laptop in the window. I tried anyway, and connected to “Durham University Authentication.” I opened Firefox and a page opened where I could enter my guest login ID, but it only directed me to a security fail page. It said that it was not a secure connection and that I should not make an exception for the firewall blocking unless I trusted the wireless. Since I don’t technically know their wireless, I figured it would be better to forgo the wifi and save my computer the possible virus. I’m sorry, Seth – I really tried to get out at least an email.
Tomorrow we’re bussing out to the Lake District, so hopefully I’ll get access to wifi at some point in time tomorrow. Seems like I’ve been out of contact for a long time after stopping at Metropole almost every day while I was in Edinburgh.
We crossed the border into England yesterday, and I feel like I’ve already had an authentic English experience. I’ve already had tea and biscuits, and cold toast for breakfast. And while I’m typing this entry, I’m listening to The Beatles.
Before we left Scotland yesterday, we visited the home of Sir Walter Scott in Abbotsford. I didn’t know what I was getting into since I equated a writer’s house with a small cottage. In reality, Sir Walter Scott’s house was more like a castle. It had an epic study filled with books AND a library. He also was an avid collector of historical items, like a clock that belonged to Marie Antoinette, armor from the battle at Waterloo, a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair, and many other things. Plus he had beautiful gardens and was right on the River Tweed.
Eventually we bussed over to the island of Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island. It was actually nice to get away from the bustle of Edinburgh, even though I loved the city. This morning I did one of my “official” journal entries on the beach as I watched the tide go out. (One of our assignments is to write travel writing journals, but part of travel writing is that it isn’t supposed to be a personal account of your travel. So I have to do a separate batch of journal entries from the ones that I post on my blog.) In any case, I think the one I wrote this morning give a decent picture of Lindisfarne, so I’ll type it up here:
It’s hard to imagine that a small island off the north-east coast of England was once the center of Celtic Christianity. Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, is only about 2 square miles and accessible only during low tide. Otherwise the high tide sweeps over the causeway and Lindisfarne is an island once again.
I can’t imagine that there are many permanent residents here, and once the summer crowds leave at 4:00pm, the island seems empty and cut off from the world.
It wasn’t always this way. Back in the 7th century AD, a group of Irish monks from Iona chose Lindisfarne as the center for the first monastery in England. They needed a location that was accessible for the people so they could introduce the people of England to Christianity. And it was the island of Lindisfarne that they chose.
Today, Lindisfarne seems almost forgotten from the books of history. Places like Durham Cathedral, where the remains of St. Cuthbert were moved after the Vikings ransacked Lindisfarne, are much more well known and visited than this small island.
But if you’re looking for a place of rest and contemplation, the Holy Island is the best place to go to encounter God. When the tides come in and flood the causeway, any desires to get up and travel are temporarily swept away with the water. After all, unless you’ve got a boat or dare to swim in the icy waters of the North Sea, you’re staying for the night. Soon all you’re left with is the silence of the wind and waves.
So take the time to follow the example set by the Irish monks of the 7th century. Find a spot on the beaches of Lindisfarne and sit and enjoy the silence. Listen to the waves retreating, the sea birds calling, and the breeze tickling your face. Listen and meditate, and when God speaks to your soul, obey.
So those were my thoughts this morning. It was just so peaceful to sit out on the beach and listen. I probably could have used another day or two there, because it finally gave me a chance to catch up on some homework. The busyness of Edinburgh made it really hard to do any reading or writing since there was always something else I could be doing that I would never have the chance to do again.
We left Lindisfarne this morning at 11:30am, after the tides had gone down and opened up the causeway again. Our destination was Durham, but on the way we made a detour at Hogwarts. Yes, you heard me right: we went to Hogwarts. Ha. By that I mean that we drove by Alnwick Castle, which was apparently used to film some of the Harry Potter movies. So being the English nerds that we are, we stopped and took nerdy pictures in front of the castle for a couple minutes before hopping on the bus again and heading off. It was fantastic, really.
We got to Durham early this afternoon – about 2:00pm, I believe. We’re staying at a dorm at St. John’s University, which is a pretty decent accommodation. It’s only two to a room, in any case.
Then we headed over to Durham Cathedral for a tour. This is where the remains of St. Cuthbert were finally buried, so it was really cool to visit the shrine in the cathedral where he’s buried and where people today still make pilgrimages. Apparently Cuthbert is buried with the head of King Oswald as well, which is kind of weird. But it’s legit, since Oswald was the one responsible for allowing the Irish monks (and St. Aiden) to start the monastery at Lindisfarne and therefore bring Christianity to England. I’ve actually come to admire Aiden and Cuthbert a lot – go look up some of their history; it’s pretty interesting.
And believe it or not, Durham Cathedral is actually Hogwarts as well. The courtyard at the south end of the cathedral was used to film parts of the first and second movies, so of course we took more nerdy Harry Potter pictures.
So that’s about all I’ve seen of Durham, because after the Evensong service (done by 6pm), most places were closed. We were planning on fish and chips for dinner, but all those places were closed so we got pizza at a café. Oh well.
Plus, we were told that we got wifi in our room and all we needed to do was get a guest logon pass at reception, but that’s a lie. I technically got a signal, but I could only get the very weak signal by placing my laptop in the window. I tried anyway, and connected to “Durham University Authentication.” I opened Firefox and a page opened where I could enter my guest login ID, but it only directed me to a security fail page. It said that it was not a secure connection and that I should not make an exception for the firewall blocking unless I trusted the wireless. Since I don’t technically know their wireless, I figured it would be better to forgo the wifi and save my computer the possible virus. I’m sorry, Seth – I really tried to get out at least an email.
Tomorrow we’re bussing out to the Lake District, so hopefully I’ll get access to wifi at some point in time tomorrow. Seems like I’ve been out of contact for a long time after stopping at Metropole almost every day while I was in Edinburgh.
From Sunday
Sunday August 23, 2009: The Supernatural and Spiritual Side of the City
The last 24 hours have been pretty intense. For one thing, I went on the underground tour of the vaults of Edinburgh with the City of the Dead Tours. It was pretty fantastic, even if I didn’t see any ghosts or have any “occurrences” with the poltergeist, known as the “South Bridge Entity.” I went with Evie and a random assortment of people I didn’t know – maybe about 20ish people total. Our tour guide’s name was Remy, and he was dressed for the part – long black leather trenchcoat, black button up, black jeans, black shoes. Evie asked him how he got the job, and he told us he’d been doing underground tours for about 2 months and got the job by sending a “bullshit email” about being a good storyteller and such. I’m inclined to believe that, since the stories on the tour were quite entertaining (though not without a little embellishment on the truth).
In any case, the legend of the underground city is that there’s a poltergeist that lives in one of the vaults. The vaults were filled with people (mainly criminals and pregnant women, since at the time pregnancy before marriage was cause to run away from home) who lived in there until (I think) the 1870’s or so. That’s when people started realizing that people in the underground vaults were still living in medieval times while everyone else was living in the “Athens of the north”, so everyone was flushed out and the underground city was boarded up. 100 years later it was rediscovered, and now there are tours down there.
I tried my hardest to find a ghost, I really did. In the last vault, which was apparently the most haunted, Remy asked for a volunteer. After about 10 seconds, in which no one else said anything, I volunteered.
Naturally, I had volunteered to stand with my back to what’s apparently the “most haunted wall” in the vault while the rest of the tour group stepped back several feet. (We were told about some history with devil worshippers and a giant mirror on the wall that they had to remove due to a mysterious yellow ooze.) And of course, the South Bridge Entity was not a “cheeky” poltergeist. Then, as I held the torch, Remy counted down and I clicked it off. So now, just to recap, I’m alone by the most haunted wall with no lights. Brilliant idea.
So for about 10 or 15 seconds, I stood there waiting for a cold chill or an unnatural burning sensation before I was told to turn the light back on. Other than a slightly higher heart rate and a rather startling drop of water on the center of my forehead, nothing happened. Maybe I’m ghost-repellant or something because I have yet to find a ghost.
That was the end of the tour, and no one in the tour reported anything happening (at least not in front of the group). At least it was entertaining, even if I failed in my ghost hunt.
After the underground tour, Evie and I decided to see a Fringe festival show. Since it was 10:30ish and we were starting to be cramped for time, we made an impulsive decision to see a musical called “Hey Sister.”
…It was terrible. Suffice it to say that we would have walked out if we hadn’t paid for it and if the crowd wasn’t small and well lit (I couldn’t bring myself to be so rude). Afterward, we decided to blame the South Bridge Entity. After all, it supposedly leaves a curse and maybe it knew that bad theatre and no “encounters” would be worse than a few scratches. Maybe we really were haunted after all – perhaps it’s planning to cause any and all bad luck for the rest of the trip. Evie and I have decided to give it the blame, anyway. =)
This morning I attended church at St. Giles Cathedral, a big old gothic cathedral on the Royal Mile. There’s a lot of history there, too – I think several Scottish kings and queens have been crowned there, and it’s known as the “Mother Kirk of Presbyterianism.” (Kirk is another word for church.) This is where Presbyterianism started after John Knox brought about the Scottish reformation. It’s also absolutely gorgeous inside – stained glass, arching ceilings, intricate stonemasonry, and a shiny silver organ.
It was just so surreal to be in a beautiful building with so much history and yet (still today) to feel God’s presence fill the building as the choir’s voices resounded throughout the church and the congregation sang hymns of praise. It was a far cry from being back at Grace, and it certainly gave me a new dimension to Christianity.
I spent the rest of the day relaxing for the most part, hanging out in Metropole until my computer battery died as I wrote, uploaded pictures, and had a Skype conversation with Seth. It was good to relax, though I wish I didn’t have to leave Edinburgh. I really do love this city, and if we weren’t going to all these other amazing places, I’d be content to remain in Scotland. I wish I knew more about my Scottish family history, though, because it’s cool to see how the Scots take pride in their clans. And it would be fascinating to know how my ancestors fit in to all the history I’ve been learning about.
While England term has already become one of the most amazing experiences of my life, it could be dangerous for me to become attached to all these cities. If I’m in love with Edinburgh and I’ve only been here a week, I can’t imagine how I’m going to be able to leave the UK at all. It’s going to be tough, that’s for sure – but at least I’ve got a great place to come home to in a little over 3 months.
The last 24 hours have been pretty intense. For one thing, I went on the underground tour of the vaults of Edinburgh with the City of the Dead Tours. It was pretty fantastic, even if I didn’t see any ghosts or have any “occurrences” with the poltergeist, known as the “South Bridge Entity.” I went with Evie and a random assortment of people I didn’t know – maybe about 20ish people total. Our tour guide’s name was Remy, and he was dressed for the part – long black leather trenchcoat, black button up, black jeans, black shoes. Evie asked him how he got the job, and he told us he’d been doing underground tours for about 2 months and got the job by sending a “bullshit email” about being a good storyteller and such. I’m inclined to believe that, since the stories on the tour were quite entertaining (though not without a little embellishment on the truth).
In any case, the legend of the underground city is that there’s a poltergeist that lives in one of the vaults. The vaults were filled with people (mainly criminals and pregnant women, since at the time pregnancy before marriage was cause to run away from home) who lived in there until (I think) the 1870’s or so. That’s when people started realizing that people in the underground vaults were still living in medieval times while everyone else was living in the “Athens of the north”, so everyone was flushed out and the underground city was boarded up. 100 years later it was rediscovered, and now there are tours down there.
I tried my hardest to find a ghost, I really did. In the last vault, which was apparently the most haunted, Remy asked for a volunteer. After about 10 seconds, in which no one else said anything, I volunteered.
Naturally, I had volunteered to stand with my back to what’s apparently the “most haunted wall” in the vault while the rest of the tour group stepped back several feet. (We were told about some history with devil worshippers and a giant mirror on the wall that they had to remove due to a mysterious yellow ooze.) And of course, the South Bridge Entity was not a “cheeky” poltergeist. Then, as I held the torch, Remy counted down and I clicked it off. So now, just to recap, I’m alone by the most haunted wall with no lights. Brilliant idea.
So for about 10 or 15 seconds, I stood there waiting for a cold chill or an unnatural burning sensation before I was told to turn the light back on. Other than a slightly higher heart rate and a rather startling drop of water on the center of my forehead, nothing happened. Maybe I’m ghost-repellant or something because I have yet to find a ghost.
That was the end of the tour, and no one in the tour reported anything happening (at least not in front of the group). At least it was entertaining, even if I failed in my ghost hunt.
After the underground tour, Evie and I decided to see a Fringe festival show. Since it was 10:30ish and we were starting to be cramped for time, we made an impulsive decision to see a musical called “Hey Sister.”
…It was terrible. Suffice it to say that we would have walked out if we hadn’t paid for it and if the crowd wasn’t small and well lit (I couldn’t bring myself to be so rude). Afterward, we decided to blame the South Bridge Entity. After all, it supposedly leaves a curse and maybe it knew that bad theatre and no “encounters” would be worse than a few scratches. Maybe we really were haunted after all – perhaps it’s planning to cause any and all bad luck for the rest of the trip. Evie and I have decided to give it the blame, anyway. =)
This morning I attended church at St. Giles Cathedral, a big old gothic cathedral on the Royal Mile. There’s a lot of history there, too – I think several Scottish kings and queens have been crowned there, and it’s known as the “Mother Kirk of Presbyterianism.” (Kirk is another word for church.) This is where Presbyterianism started after John Knox brought about the Scottish reformation. It’s also absolutely gorgeous inside – stained glass, arching ceilings, intricate stonemasonry, and a shiny silver organ.
It was just so surreal to be in a beautiful building with so much history and yet (still today) to feel God’s presence fill the building as the choir’s voices resounded throughout the church and the congregation sang hymns of praise. It was a far cry from being back at Grace, and it certainly gave me a new dimension to Christianity.
I spent the rest of the day relaxing for the most part, hanging out in Metropole until my computer battery died as I wrote, uploaded pictures, and had a Skype conversation with Seth. It was good to relax, though I wish I didn’t have to leave Edinburgh. I really do love this city, and if we weren’t going to all these other amazing places, I’d be content to remain in Scotland. I wish I knew more about my Scottish family history, though, because it’s cool to see how the Scots take pride in their clans. And it would be fascinating to know how my ancestors fit in to all the history I’ve been learning about.
While England term has already become one of the most amazing experiences of my life, it could be dangerous for me to become attached to all these cities. If I’m in love with Edinburgh and I’ve only been here a week, I can’t imagine how I’m going to be able to leave the UK at all. It’s going to be tough, that’s for sure – but at least I’ve got a great place to come home to in a little over 3 months.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
And from today!
Saturday August 22, 2009, 5:45pm
I definitely have a cold. My throat feels a lot better, but now my nose is all stuffy and I’m not feeling at my best. Fortunately, a cold is a manageable ailment, and there are so much worse things that I could’ve come down with. At least I can still function with a cold.
Today we got to tour a couple castles just north of Edinburgh. First we stopped at Linlithgow and saw the ruins of the castle there. It was actually a lot of fun climbing in all the towers and hallways. And I did make it up to the highest room in the tallest tower. =) It was the only tower open all the way to the top, even if all four were about the same height. Then there were green rolling hills all the way down to the lake, where I saw a couple swans swimming around. Next door was St. Michael’s Kirk (church) with beautiful stained glass windows and a fairly extensive graveyard surrounding it. I actually found a Gardner gravestone – maybe some long lost relatives?
After a few hours at Linlithgow, we bussed up to see Stirling Castle. It was surreal to be there where many kings and queens lived and to be near the site of the Battle of Bannockburn, where the Scots defeated the English against astounding odds (led by Robert the Bruce). Although I was a little miffed to hear that William Wallace was really fighting for the displaced King John of Scotland instead of for freedom. I mean, I know that Braveheart doesn’t show how it really happened, but still. It would’ve been cooler if it had happened that way. I did learn that the real William Wallace was 6’7” and apparently his sword is at the William Wallace monument (which I didn’t get to see, but it was an imposing tower visible from Stirling). So I guess that makes him an awesome guy again. I wouldn’t want to meet him in battle, that’s for sure.
What I’m really looking forward to tonight is an underground ghost tour. Apparently Edinburgh has a network of underground tunnels with a sketchy past where there may or may not be ghosts. Evie and I are going for sure tonight, as well as a few people who might go with us. I’m really hoping some ghosts show up. =)
I definitely have a cold. My throat feels a lot better, but now my nose is all stuffy and I’m not feeling at my best. Fortunately, a cold is a manageable ailment, and there are so much worse things that I could’ve come down with. At least I can still function with a cold.
Today we got to tour a couple castles just north of Edinburgh. First we stopped at Linlithgow and saw the ruins of the castle there. It was actually a lot of fun climbing in all the towers and hallways. And I did make it up to the highest room in the tallest tower. =) It was the only tower open all the way to the top, even if all four were about the same height. Then there were green rolling hills all the way down to the lake, where I saw a couple swans swimming around. Next door was St. Michael’s Kirk (church) with beautiful stained glass windows and a fairly extensive graveyard surrounding it. I actually found a Gardner gravestone – maybe some long lost relatives?
After a few hours at Linlithgow, we bussed up to see Stirling Castle. It was surreal to be there where many kings and queens lived and to be near the site of the Battle of Bannockburn, where the Scots defeated the English against astounding odds (led by Robert the Bruce). Although I was a little miffed to hear that William Wallace was really fighting for the displaced King John of Scotland instead of for freedom. I mean, I know that Braveheart doesn’t show how it really happened, but still. It would’ve been cooler if it had happened that way. I did learn that the real William Wallace was 6’7” and apparently his sword is at the William Wallace monument (which I didn’t get to see, but it was an imposing tower visible from Stirling). So I guess that makes him an awesome guy again. I wouldn’t want to meet him in battle, that’s for sure.
What I’m really looking forward to tonight is an underground ghost tour. Apparently Edinburgh has a network of underground tunnels with a sketchy past where there may or may not be ghosts. Evie and I are going for sure tonight, as well as a few people who might go with us. I’m really hoping some ghosts show up. =)
From Friday
Friday August 21, 2009, 9:30 pm: The day of epic cliffs and epic tiredness
It’s getting to the point where I’m starting to wear out. As of last night, I started to get a sore throat, though I’m still not sure if it’s because I’m getting sick or because I’m getting tired. It’s just been lingering all day long. My plan tonight is to go to bed early, and hopefully I’ll feel better tomorrow.
So where did I leave you? Oh yes – the Military Tattoo festival. It was absolutely fantastic! (BBC was recording it the night I was there, too – I think they said something about August 29th?) Anyway – SO COOL. I’ve never seen in broadcasted on TV before, so I had no idea what to expect. But in short, it was a band geek’s dream. Think international, ethnic marching bands. It started out with an entire marching band of bagpipes and drums, which each guy wearing full Scottish garb (yes, that means a kilt!). I just about died of happiness then; it was that epic.
The rest of the festival consisted of marching bands / drum lines / dancers from Scotland and a few other countries – Switzerland, China, and a country in Africa that I don’t remember the name of were a few. Plus a few Robert Burns songs, being as it’s the 250th anniversary of his birth year. And all of this was right in front of Edinburgh castle.
Then Kaari, Evie, and I wandered around the Grassmarket for a while. We stopped in a pub (The White Hart Inn), which was probably my dream pub. It was absolutely packed, and there was an accordion and everyone was singing Scottish songs. We hung around a while, but left eventually because we felt a little strange since we couldn’t order any alcohol. Earlier we would have been fine with coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, but midnight? Not so much. Silly Bethel.
When we were walking home later, my throat started feeling a little sore. I thought maybe going to bed would help, but when I woke up in the morning it was still there. It’s gotten mostly better throughout the day, but it’s still lingering in the background, so that’s why I’m not sure if I’m sick or not.
This morning we had class over in the conference room at Edinburgh University, but it wasn’t really class class. We had a Burns impersonator come in, so all we did was learn about Burns and hear some of his poetry and songs as they should be read – in a fantastic Scottish accent.
The highlight of the day, though, would have to be climbing up to the top of Arthur’s Seat. Basically, Arthur’s Seat is the pinnacle of a big hill (I don’t think it’s quite a mountain) in Edinburgh’s backyard. The hike itself wasn’t that long, but it took a little effort since it could be pretty steep in parts. The view at the top was absolutely astounding. It was a clear sunny day (just a few clouds in the sky) and you can see all of Edinburgh. And the best part? An abundance of dramatic cliffs! Seriously, there were cliffs everywhere, and the gusting winds made it perfect for the ideal dramatic cliff photos.
After that, most of the group went to one of the Fringe festival shows, Iago. The entire thing was one guy acting out all of Othello from Iago’s point of view with no props (just a white sheet on the floor). Although I’m slightly ashamed to admit it, I’ve never read Othello. So while it was good, it wasn’t anything extraordinary. I was distracted by the fact that the guy stepped on a daddy long legs during the performance, so it sat there on the white sheet with its legs twitching for a minute before it finally died. And then it was just sitting there, squished, on the sheet. Gross.
I’ve just been relaxing for the rest of the evening, mainly because I started feeling a little more worn out. I stopped by the Metropole for some wifi again, though the internet there has been off and on for the past day or so. So I didn’t get internet right away, but I did enjoy a hot chocolate with whipped cream and marshmallows and some live music. This time it was a couple guys, one on bass clarinet and the other on a sort of kettle drum. It sounds like a weird combination, but it worked really well and I enjoyed their music. Especially when they played “Eleanor Rigby.”
When it got to be about 8:45 and I realized I still hadn’t eaten, I figured I should leave. I stopped by the grocery store and bought milk, butter, and a box of Kraft “Cheesy Pasta.” Obviously, it wasn’t as good as the American blue box, but it was passable. A good supper, at least.
It’s almost 10pm now, so I think I’m going to head off to bed. We’re meeting at 9am to head over to Stirling Castle and the Bannockburn Heritage center, so I want to get as much sleep as possible.
It’s getting to the point where I’m starting to wear out. As of last night, I started to get a sore throat, though I’m still not sure if it’s because I’m getting sick or because I’m getting tired. It’s just been lingering all day long. My plan tonight is to go to bed early, and hopefully I’ll feel better tomorrow.
So where did I leave you? Oh yes – the Military Tattoo festival. It was absolutely fantastic! (BBC was recording it the night I was there, too – I think they said something about August 29th?) Anyway – SO COOL. I’ve never seen in broadcasted on TV before, so I had no idea what to expect. But in short, it was a band geek’s dream. Think international, ethnic marching bands. It started out with an entire marching band of bagpipes and drums, which each guy wearing full Scottish garb (yes, that means a kilt!). I just about died of happiness then; it was that epic.
The rest of the festival consisted of marching bands / drum lines / dancers from Scotland and a few other countries – Switzerland, China, and a country in Africa that I don’t remember the name of were a few. Plus a few Robert Burns songs, being as it’s the 250th anniversary of his birth year. And all of this was right in front of Edinburgh castle.
Then Kaari, Evie, and I wandered around the Grassmarket for a while. We stopped in a pub (The White Hart Inn), which was probably my dream pub. It was absolutely packed, and there was an accordion and everyone was singing Scottish songs. We hung around a while, but left eventually because we felt a little strange since we couldn’t order any alcohol. Earlier we would have been fine with coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, but midnight? Not so much. Silly Bethel.
When we were walking home later, my throat started feeling a little sore. I thought maybe going to bed would help, but when I woke up in the morning it was still there. It’s gotten mostly better throughout the day, but it’s still lingering in the background, so that’s why I’m not sure if I’m sick or not.
This morning we had class over in the conference room at Edinburgh University, but it wasn’t really class class. We had a Burns impersonator come in, so all we did was learn about Burns and hear some of his poetry and songs as they should be read – in a fantastic Scottish accent.
The highlight of the day, though, would have to be climbing up to the top of Arthur’s Seat. Basically, Arthur’s Seat is the pinnacle of a big hill (I don’t think it’s quite a mountain) in Edinburgh’s backyard. The hike itself wasn’t that long, but it took a little effort since it could be pretty steep in parts. The view at the top was absolutely astounding. It was a clear sunny day (just a few clouds in the sky) and you can see all of Edinburgh. And the best part? An abundance of dramatic cliffs! Seriously, there were cliffs everywhere, and the gusting winds made it perfect for the ideal dramatic cliff photos.
After that, most of the group went to one of the Fringe festival shows, Iago. The entire thing was one guy acting out all of Othello from Iago’s point of view with no props (just a white sheet on the floor). Although I’m slightly ashamed to admit it, I’ve never read Othello. So while it was good, it wasn’t anything extraordinary. I was distracted by the fact that the guy stepped on a daddy long legs during the performance, so it sat there on the white sheet with its legs twitching for a minute before it finally died. And then it was just sitting there, squished, on the sheet. Gross.
I’ve just been relaxing for the rest of the evening, mainly because I started feeling a little more worn out. I stopped by the Metropole for some wifi again, though the internet there has been off and on for the past day or so. So I didn’t get internet right away, but I did enjoy a hot chocolate with whipped cream and marshmallows and some live music. This time it was a couple guys, one on bass clarinet and the other on a sort of kettle drum. It sounds like a weird combination, but it worked really well and I enjoyed their music. Especially when they played “Eleanor Rigby.”
When it got to be about 8:45 and I realized I still hadn’t eaten, I figured I should leave. I stopped by the grocery store and bought milk, butter, and a box of Kraft “Cheesy Pasta.” Obviously, it wasn’t as good as the American blue box, but it was passable. A good supper, at least.
It’s almost 10pm now, so I think I’m going to head off to bed. We’re meeting at 9am to head over to Stirling Castle and the Bannockburn Heritage center, so I want to get as much sleep as possible.
Friday, August 21, 2009
From Thursday
Thursday August 20th 2009; 6:15 pm
Well, I’m here. I’m really not sure where to start: it feels like it’s been a week since I left Minnesota, but it’s only Thursday. (My Monday and Tuesday merged together since I lost 6 hours of my life in time zones – and most of that time was my sleeping hours.)
I think it’s pretty safe to say that I love Edinburgh. As excited as I am to go see everywhere else, it’s really disappointing that we’re only spending a week here. I feel like I’m missing out on so much.
One of the most intense parts of Edinburgh this week is the crowds for the multitudes of festivals. For one, it’s the Military Tattoo festival, which I’m going to see tonight. But at the same time, it’s the Fringe festival, a huge drama/film/theatre festival. It’s actually pretty intimidating – if you walk down the Royal Mile from the castle, you get handed endless flyers from strangely dressed people advertising their performances. So many buildings throughout Edinburgh are “Fringe venues”, where the performances take place.
But seriously – I love this city. Our flats are right on South Clerk Street, which is within walking distance of most things. Although I have been experimenting with the bus system (£3 for a day pass), because sometimes it’s nice just to sit down for a while. (And yes, I have ridden on the top of a double-decker bus. A necessary experience, I must say.)
So far I’ve really only done the main touristy things. Yesterday I went with Melissa H. on the 37 bus to North Bridge in order to head up to the Edinburgh castle. It’s almost a requirement to go see the castle, though, and it was actually a lot of fun. We got to see the Scottish crown jewels, the old royal apartments, the dungeons, and lots of other cool exhibits that they had set up. Later we walked down the Royal Mile on High Street, which is a long downhill road lined with tourist shops. We also stopped by the Grassmarket, which used to be the location of many public executions. Now, though, it’s generally just a street of restaurants, so we didn’t stay there long.
What I enjoy about Edinburgh is the excessive amounts of independent coffee shops. My favorite haunt is one called Metropole, just a few blocks down from our flats. It has free wifi after a purchase, so I’ve already been in there 3 times for wifi and a mocha. It’s just the right amount of coffee shop casual atmosphere – not too fancy, but not a sketchy place I wouldn’t want to hang out in with my computer. And unless there’s live musicians (which there was one time – a guitar and a string bass), it’s generally quiet enough for a Skype conversation.
I also got to go to the Elephant House, another independent café. But this one is special: it’s the café in which JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter. So, naturally, the have “The birthplace of Harry Potter” written on their window and on the employees’ shirts. Melissa and I liked to imagine that JK Rowling wrote at least part of Harry Potter at the table we were sitting at. It’s easy to see why she picked the Elephant House, though – there was a fantastic view of the Edinburgh castle from the window. Just like Hogwarts, no?
Food here is pretty great. The first night (Tuesday) I went with a few other girls to The Abbey, a Scottish pub. There I ordered bangers and mash with Yorkshire pudding (translation: sausage, mashed potatoes, and breadbowl-ish things with gravy), and tried a bite of Evie’s highland chicken (chicken stuffed with haggis). And to tell the truth, the haggis wasn’t all that bad. I might be able to eat it on its own.
But in general, we’ve been cooking our own meals. Yesterday we went grocery shopping, and got about 3 meals worth of food for about £5 a person. And I made some experimental brownies (I hate cooking and wanted to feel useful). We had no brownie pan, so I used the lid of a glass casserole dish. We didn’t want to buy vegetable oil, so I used olive oil. We had no measuring cups, so I had to estimate 75 mL of water and 30 mL of oil. And then I had to guess on the cooking time since it was a weird pan. Fortunately, I didn’t burn them and they turned out delicious.
And the Dr Pepper here? It’s weird. I bought a bottle just because, and the label said it was “a fruit flavoured soft drink.” Dr Pepper = fruity? Not that I can remember. So I tried it, and it did taste a little different. At first I thought that it was just because it was real sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup, but the more I drank it the more I detected a hint of pineapple flavor. I know it sounds strange, and it’s nearly impossible for me to put my finger on the difference, but it just seemed a little more cherry-ish with a hint of pineapple. But it still manages to taste (mostly) like Dr Pepper.
Well, it’s nearing 7pm here, and I’m starting to get hungry. I think Evie and I are going to go grab a sandwich or something as we make our way to the Military Tattoo tonight, since we’re supposed to get there around 8:15-8:20. Plus, I want to get a Scottish plaid scarf. They’re everywhere, and look really warm. Since I have to head back up to the castle anyway, I might look in a few stores along the Royal Mile.
Well, I’m here. I’m really not sure where to start: it feels like it’s been a week since I left Minnesota, but it’s only Thursday. (My Monday and Tuesday merged together since I lost 6 hours of my life in time zones – and most of that time was my sleeping hours.)
I think it’s pretty safe to say that I love Edinburgh. As excited as I am to go see everywhere else, it’s really disappointing that we’re only spending a week here. I feel like I’m missing out on so much.
One of the most intense parts of Edinburgh this week is the crowds for the multitudes of festivals. For one, it’s the Military Tattoo festival, which I’m going to see tonight. But at the same time, it’s the Fringe festival, a huge drama/film/theatre festival. It’s actually pretty intimidating – if you walk down the Royal Mile from the castle, you get handed endless flyers from strangely dressed people advertising their performances. So many buildings throughout Edinburgh are “Fringe venues”, where the performances take place.
But seriously – I love this city. Our flats are right on South Clerk Street, which is within walking distance of most things. Although I have been experimenting with the bus system (£3 for a day pass), because sometimes it’s nice just to sit down for a while. (And yes, I have ridden on the top of a double-decker bus. A necessary experience, I must say.)
So far I’ve really only done the main touristy things. Yesterday I went with Melissa H. on the 37 bus to North Bridge in order to head up to the Edinburgh castle. It’s almost a requirement to go see the castle, though, and it was actually a lot of fun. We got to see the Scottish crown jewels, the old royal apartments, the dungeons, and lots of other cool exhibits that they had set up. Later we walked down the Royal Mile on High Street, which is a long downhill road lined with tourist shops. We also stopped by the Grassmarket, which used to be the location of many public executions. Now, though, it’s generally just a street of restaurants, so we didn’t stay there long.
What I enjoy about Edinburgh is the excessive amounts of independent coffee shops. My favorite haunt is one called Metropole, just a few blocks down from our flats. It has free wifi after a purchase, so I’ve already been in there 3 times for wifi and a mocha. It’s just the right amount of coffee shop casual atmosphere – not too fancy, but not a sketchy place I wouldn’t want to hang out in with my computer. And unless there’s live musicians (which there was one time – a guitar and a string bass), it’s generally quiet enough for a Skype conversation.
I also got to go to the Elephant House, another independent café. But this one is special: it’s the café in which JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter. So, naturally, the have “The birthplace of Harry Potter” written on their window and on the employees’ shirts. Melissa and I liked to imagine that JK Rowling wrote at least part of Harry Potter at the table we were sitting at. It’s easy to see why she picked the Elephant House, though – there was a fantastic view of the Edinburgh castle from the window. Just like Hogwarts, no?
Food here is pretty great. The first night (Tuesday) I went with a few other girls to The Abbey, a Scottish pub. There I ordered bangers and mash with Yorkshire pudding (translation: sausage, mashed potatoes, and breadbowl-ish things with gravy), and tried a bite of Evie’s highland chicken (chicken stuffed with haggis). And to tell the truth, the haggis wasn’t all that bad. I might be able to eat it on its own.
But in general, we’ve been cooking our own meals. Yesterday we went grocery shopping, and got about 3 meals worth of food for about £5 a person. And I made some experimental brownies (I hate cooking and wanted to feel useful). We had no brownie pan, so I used the lid of a glass casserole dish. We didn’t want to buy vegetable oil, so I used olive oil. We had no measuring cups, so I had to estimate 75 mL of water and 30 mL of oil. And then I had to guess on the cooking time since it was a weird pan. Fortunately, I didn’t burn them and they turned out delicious.
And the Dr Pepper here? It’s weird. I bought a bottle just because, and the label said it was “a fruit flavoured soft drink.” Dr Pepper = fruity? Not that I can remember. So I tried it, and it did taste a little different. At first I thought that it was just because it was real sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup, but the more I drank it the more I detected a hint of pineapple flavor. I know it sounds strange, and it’s nearly impossible for me to put my finger on the difference, but it just seemed a little more cherry-ish with a hint of pineapple. But it still manages to taste (mostly) like Dr Pepper.
Well, it’s nearing 7pm here, and I’m starting to get hungry. I think Evie and I are going to go grab a sandwich or something as we make our way to the Military Tattoo tonight, since we’re supposed to get there around 8:15-8:20. Plus, I want to get a Scottish plaid scarf. They’re everywhere, and look really warm. Since I have to head back up to the castle anyway, I might look in a few stores along the Royal Mile.
Monday, August 17, 2009
On the eve of departure
This is it. 24 hours from now I will be on a plane flying out to Amsterdam before connecting to Edinburgh. Although I've been waiting for this moment for 3+ years, it's a little terrifying right now. I've been packing, planning, and preparing all week, and now that the moment is here, I still don't feel ready.
I'm not ready to say goodbye to my family and boyfriend for a whole semester. For that matter, I'm not ready to say goodbye to my grandparents, who may or may not still be alive when I return. Who knows how long they'll still be around? Three and a half months is a long time, especially with no phone calls and sporadic internet access.
My cat and my fish may or may not be here either. (I know losing a cat doesn't seem like a big deal, but we've had her since I was 3, and I honestly don't remember life without her. Since she's about 18 years old and has recently had health problems, it's possible that tomorrow is the last time I'll ever see her.)
I don't know. Knowing that I only have 24 hours left leaves me with a mix of emotions, ensuring that I settle into a restless funk. I'm so excited to leave, but this goodbye thing doesn't work well with me. I think it'll be a relief to be on the plane and have the goodbyes over and done with - then I can move past the leaving and start thinking about what's ahead. Because I'm sure God has amazing things in store for me in the coming semester.
I'm not ready to say goodbye to my family and boyfriend for a whole semester. For that matter, I'm not ready to say goodbye to my grandparents, who may or may not still be alive when I return. Who knows how long they'll still be around? Three and a half months is a long time, especially with no phone calls and sporadic internet access.
My cat and my fish may or may not be here either. (I know losing a cat doesn't seem like a big deal, but we've had her since I was 3, and I honestly don't remember life without her. Since she's about 18 years old and has recently had health problems, it's possible that tomorrow is the last time I'll ever see her.)
I don't know. Knowing that I only have 24 hours left leaves me with a mix of emotions, ensuring that I settle into a restless funk. I'm so excited to leave, but this goodbye thing doesn't work well with me. I think it'll be a relief to be on the plane and have the goodbyes over and done with - then I can move past the leaving and start thinking about what's ahead. Because I'm sure God has amazing things in store for me in the coming semester.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
It's now approaching the 3 day mark - 72 hours until I leave - and I'm finally making progress on my pre-trip reading. For the past couple days, I've been immersed in James Joyce's A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. Unfortunately, I was unaware of how long of a work it was, so I've had to spend most of my evenings reading (when I'm not packing).
To be honest, I hadn't really gotten into it until tonight. But all of a sudden one of the passages struck me: "Now what is the meaning of this word retreat and why is it allowed on all hands to be a most salutary practice for all who desire to lead before God and in the eyes of men a truly christian life? A retreat, my dear boys, signifies a withdrawal for a while from the cares of our life, the cares of this workaday world, in order to examine the state of our conscience, to reflect on the mysteries of holy religion and to understand better why we are here in this world" (Joyce 362). As I read that passage, I realized that that is what I was hoping for during England term. I'm essentially going on a very long retreat - a clean break from everything "normal" in my life - and I'm hoping that it will be a time of spiritual growth.
The following 40 pages contained a detailed hell and brimstone sermon. Maybe it's my protestant background, but from what I can remember, I've never actually heard a sermon so full of condemnation. Yet in Joyce's novel, it's exactly what Stephen Dedalus needs, and Joyce crafts Stephen's guilt so well that I was pulled into the sermon and could feel Stephen's shame (my shame) so clearly.
I just finished chapter III, which ended with a beautiful and well-written example of God's forgiveness toward Stephen. Somehow, through what should have been an eternally long sermon, Joyce illustrates Stephen's shame, guilt, and eventual repentance so accurately that it's almost discouraging to me as a writer. I don't think I've even come close to putting words to such feelings without it sounding cheesy and trite.
I haven't read much Joyce until now, so ususally I equate Joyce with stream of consciousness writing and an overall sense of rambling confusion. Tonight, at least, I've come to respect him so much more as a writer, and I'm excited to study him more closely in Dublin.
--
In other news... today I finished my last day of work at Dairy Queen before I leave. It's a little disconcerting to think that I probably won't be getting another paycheck until the end of January 2010 - unless I'm able to procure a job when I return at the beginning of December. So far that's seeming unlikely. Otherwise... what I see is what I've got. And I'm hoping and praying that it'll be enough.
Only 72 hours left until I leave the country, and although I'm making progress, I still have a lot to do before I'll be ready.
To be honest, I hadn't really gotten into it until tonight. But all of a sudden one of the passages struck me: "Now what is the meaning of this word retreat and why is it allowed on all hands to be a most salutary practice for all who desire to lead before God and in the eyes of men a truly christian life? A retreat, my dear boys, signifies a withdrawal for a while from the cares of our life, the cares of this workaday world, in order to examine the state of our conscience, to reflect on the mysteries of holy religion and to understand better why we are here in this world" (Joyce 362). As I read that passage, I realized that that is what I was hoping for during England term. I'm essentially going on a very long retreat - a clean break from everything "normal" in my life - and I'm hoping that it will be a time of spiritual growth.
The following 40 pages contained a detailed hell and brimstone sermon. Maybe it's my protestant background, but from what I can remember, I've never actually heard a sermon so full of condemnation. Yet in Joyce's novel, it's exactly what Stephen Dedalus needs, and Joyce crafts Stephen's guilt so well that I was pulled into the sermon and could feel Stephen's shame (my shame) so clearly.
I just finished chapter III, which ended with a beautiful and well-written example of God's forgiveness toward Stephen. Somehow, through what should have been an eternally long sermon, Joyce illustrates Stephen's shame, guilt, and eventual repentance so accurately that it's almost discouraging to me as a writer. I don't think I've even come close to putting words to such feelings without it sounding cheesy and trite.
I haven't read much Joyce until now, so ususally I equate Joyce with stream of consciousness writing and an overall sense of rambling confusion. Tonight, at least, I've come to respect him so much more as a writer, and I'm excited to study him more closely in Dublin.
--
In other news... today I finished my last day of work at Dairy Queen before I leave. It's a little disconcerting to think that I probably won't be getting another paycheck until the end of January 2010 - unless I'm able to procure a job when I return at the beginning of December. So far that's seeming unlikely. Otherwise... what I see is what I've got. And I'm hoping and praying that it'll be enough.
Only 72 hours left until I leave the country, and although I'm making progress, I still have a lot to do before I'll be ready.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Scotland accommodations
Well... England term is a week from tomorrow. One week to go, and I still have far too much to do.
Anyway, here's where I'll be staying for the first week while I'm in Edinburgh, Scotland. I'll keep you all posted as to where I'm staying later since I doubt anyone besides me will remember beyond the first week right now.
Edinburgh, August 18-23
Edinburgh First Accommodation Services (University of Edinburgh)
We will be staying in apartments on S. Clerk St. on the grounds of the University of Edinburgh
It is not advisable to try to mail letters to this venue
011-44-131-651-2189Also... got myself a webcam today, so I'll be up for Skype video chats while I'm gone. ;D
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
The Itinerary
Well, here's my initial itinerary for England term. Obviously I don't have exactly what we're doing each day put in here or listed any accommodations, but this should give a pretty good idea of what country and city I'll be in and when. So if you happen to be in Europe this fall (especially October 10-19!), feel free to track me down. =)
ENGLAND TERM 2009
Mon 17: Depart 9:15 p.m. Northwest Flt 56 (Arr. Amsterdam 12:30 p.m.)- Lindbergh Terminal
Tue 18: Dep Amsterdam NW 8555 3:15 p.m., Arrive Edinburgh 3:40 pm.
Wed 19: Edinburgh - Sometime this week, see “Iago” (Fringe Festival-Zoo, 5:45 pm)
Thurs 20: Edinburgh—9:30-11 class/debriefing; Tattoo (9:00 p.m.)
Fri 21: Edinburgh— 10:30 a.m.-12:30 class with Burns Interpreter, 5:45 p.m.—17
students + Prof. Bruce to “Iago” at Zoo theatre (The Pleasance St.)
Sat 22: Edinburgh— daytrip org’d by Mark to Stirling Castle/Bannockburn Heritage Centre
Sun 23: Edinburgh - 5:45 p.m.—5 students + DR to “Iago”
Mon 24: To Lindisfarne, possibly via Abbotsford. M Bruce returns to US
Tues 25: To Durham—afternoon visit to Durham Cathedral
Wed 26: To Lake District via Hadrian’s Wall
Thurs 27: My 21st birthday! Lake District—afternoon visit to Dove Cottage, Wordsworth Walk
Fri 28: Lake District—Outdoor activities day – Derwentwater and surrounding area
Sat 29: Lake District— two morning classes
Sun 30: Lake District—optional afternoon trip to Beatrix Potter’s House and Hawkshead
Mon 31: Lake District - Two morning classes
SEPTEMBER
Tues 1: To St. Deniol’s (Hawarden), via Liverpool (Beatles Story, Int’l Slavery Museum)
Wed 2: St. Deniol’s
Thurs 3: St. Deiniol’s—Hopkins talk (St. Beunos); hike up Mt. Snowdon
Fri 4: St. Deiniol’s
Sat 5: St. Deiniol’s
Sun 6: St. Deniol’s (church @Chester, then to Bodnant Gardens)
Mon 7: St. Deiniol’s
Tues 8: St. Deiniol’s
Wed 9: To York, via Haworth (Brontë home); 5:15 evensong @ York Cathedral.
Thurs 10: To London (Celtic Hotel) after morning visit to Jorvik Center (Viking museum). Late afternoon tea/orientation to London - get underground card
Fri 11: London – Morning: “Hop on, hop off” tour of London. We’ll take tube as a group to Piccadilly Circus & take “Yellow Tour.” (You must make at least 5 stops and tour one of the museums)
Sat 12: London – Judie arrives (12:15). 3 pm Meet Wagih Abdelmasih – Agabe Arabic Christian Centre 11 Porchester Rd (near Bayswater & Royal Oak Underground)
Sun 13: London – Church suggestion: Holy Trinity Brompton
Mon 14: London – Morning – Mrs. Dalloway walk
Tues 15: London – Globe Theatre 10:30 – noon acting instruction; 5:30 return to Globe for pre-performance lecture, presentation of As You Like It
Wed 16: To High Leigh, perhaps via Keats’s house –Hoddesdon
Thurs 17: High Leigh
Fri 18: High Leigh
Sat 19: High Leigh
Sun 20: to Cambridge –Corpus Christi College
Mon 21: Cambridge – Day trip to Little Gidding. Extra luggage/books to be sent to Celtic Hotel, London.
Tues 22: Transfer to Heathrow Airport for 2:50 p.m. departure to Dublin (arr 4:15 p.m.) British Midland Airways, Flt BD 0129. Max checked luggage: 44 lbs.
Wed 23: Dublin—Joyce walk
Thurs 24: Dublin—Day trip: Joyce Tower, Glendalough
Fri 25: Dublin—
Sat 26: Sligo self-catering, via Newgrange and Hill of Tara.
Sun 27: Sligo (rest)
Mon 28: Sligo – Day trip: lecture from Yeats Society + climb Knocknarae
Tues 29: Sligo - early afternoon visit to Lissadell House
Wed 30: Sligo – second lecture from Yeats Society + afternoon @ Lough Gill
OCTOBER
Thurs 1: Sligo –
Fri 2: to Belfast, via Derry and Giant’s Causeway. Homestays through Monday morning. Half of group does evening outreach ministry (until 2 a.m.)
Sat 3: Belfast—homestays. Other half of group does evening ministry
Sun 4: Belfast – Worship at 11. Late afternoon seminar on Belfast ministry
Mon 5: Morning flight, Belfast to Paris. Afternoon transfer to Bayeux via Rouen Cathedral. (Aer Lingus flight EI 0058, Dep. Belfast Int’l (BFS) 11:50 a.m. (arr. at airport by 9:50 a.m.) Arr. Paris (CDG) 2:30 (no meal) 44 lbs. luggage
Tues 6: Bayeux – Tour of Normandy Beaches; Evening Banquet.
Wed 7: Paris – To Paris, Hôtel des Balcons, via Versailles Palace
Thurs 8: Paris – Hôtel des Balcons. Paris in the ‘20s tour (morning)
Fri 9: Paris – Hôtel des Balcons
Sat 10: FREE TRAVEL BEGINS
Sun 11: Free Travel
Mon 12: Free Travel
Tues 13: Free Travel
Wed 14: Free travel
Thurs 15: Free travel
Fri 16: Free travel
Sat 17: Free travel – Ritchies return to U.S.
Sun 18: Free travel
Mon 19: Free travel
Tues 20: London, Celtic Hotel, London. 61-63 Guilford St, Russell Sq
Wed 21: London, Celtic Hotel
Thurs 22: London, Celtic Hotel - 3 pm-interaction with Agape Arabic Christian Centre (11 Porchester Rd (near Bayswater & Royal Oak Underground))
Fri 23: London, Celtic Hotel
Sat 24: London, Celtic Hotel
Sun 25: London, Celtic Hotel
Mon 26: London, Celtic Hotel
Tues 27: Tunbridge Wells
Wed 28: Tunbridge Wells
Thurs 29: Tunbridge Wells
Fri 30: Tunbridge Wells
Sat 31: Tunbridge Wells
NOVEMBER
Sun 1: Tunbridge Wells
Mon 2: Tunbridge Wells
Tues 3: Tunbridge Wells
Wed 4: Canterbury
Thurs 5: Canterbury
Fri 6: Canterbury
Sat 7: Canterbury
Sun 8: Oxford
Mon 9: Oxford
Tues 10: Stratford
Wed 11: Stratford
Thurs 12: Stratford
Fri 13: Stratford
Sat 14: Stratford
Sun 15: Bristol/Bath
Mon 16: Bristol/Bath
Tues 17: Bristol/Bath
Wed 18: Lyme Regis
Thurs 19: Lyme Regis, via Cadbury
Fri 20: Plymouth (Battisborough House)
Sat 21: Plymouth
Sun 22: Plymouth
Mon 23: Plymouth (Visit Tintagel, St. Ives, St. Michael’s Mount)
Tues 24: Plymouth
Wed 25: Plymouth
Thurs 26: Thanksgiving! Plymouth
Fri 27: Winchester, via Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral
Sat 28: Winchester
Sun 29: Winchester
Mon 30: to London, via Chawton (Jane Austen’s house)
DECEMBER
Tues 1: London
Wed 2: London
Thurs 3: Depart London (Heathrow) NW Flt 103, 9:40 a.m. arr. MSP 12:55 p.m.
Monday, August 3, 2009
My goals
I've started realizing in the last few weeks that my priorities are not where they're supposed to be. I've been placing other people and things in front of God and paying far more attention to them than I have to him. It's a little bit disconcerting, especially since now it seems obvious as to why I've been feeling distant from God.
So now it seems as though England term is taking on a new meaning for me. Sure, I want to go and geek out about literature, explore new countries, and go on extraordinary adventures, but that's not going to be my primary goal. For the three and a half months that I'm gone, my goal will be to surrender myself completely, fully, absolutely to God. I'm hoping that in getting time away from the people, places, and things that have taken over my life, God will give me the strength and courage to set things right when I get back home. I know I haven't been living up to God's will for me and I haven't been relying on him to sustain me as I should. If I'm going to be honest with myself, my life this summer has been about me, not God.
And it's time things changed. I know God has better plans for me than I could ever dream of, and it's up to me to listen to him.
So now it seems as though England term is taking on a new meaning for me. Sure, I want to go and geek out about literature, explore new countries, and go on extraordinary adventures, but that's not going to be my primary goal. For the three and a half months that I'm gone, my goal will be to surrender myself completely, fully, absolutely to God. I'm hoping that in getting time away from the people, places, and things that have taken over my life, God will give me the strength and courage to set things right when I get back home. I know I haven't been living up to God's will for me and I haven't been relying on him to sustain me as I should. If I'm going to be honest with myself, my life this summer has been about me, not God.
And it's time things changed. I know God has better plans for me than I could ever dream of, and it's up to me to listen to him.
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